Wilson Peak – 14,017 ft
Mt Sneffels – 14,150 ft
Uncompahgre Peak – 14,309 ft
Wilson Peak – 14,017 ft
Date:
7-1-2006
Climbers: George Barnes, MarkDB, James J., Matt S.
Route: West Face via Silver Pick Basin, Class 3
RT time: ~7
hours
RT distance:
7.0 miles
Elevation gain: 3,650
feet
First, a note about access. Wilson Peak has some access issues that
apparently aren't going to be resolved any time soon. The Silver Pick
Basin's west face route (described on
SummitPost,
14ers.com, and in
other recent reports) was supposed to avoid all private property,
but we spoke with the landowner on our way out and he suggests that this route
is also off limits. If you want to cough up $100 he'll let you climb the
standard route over the Rock of Ages Saddle. For the latest access info,
you can see the land owner's website at
www.wilsonpeakaccess.com.
To avoid
afternoon storms we left the Silver Pick TH a little after 3:30 AM.
We followed directions for the west face route that was supposed to
skirt all of the private property in the basin. This skirting
often meant walking on loose, steep talus, sometimes only a few
hundred feet away from a private gravel road. Ridiculous.
The west
face route became more appealing higher up, as snow covers all of
the loose talus. The route climbs up a large snowfield, and
then joins the standard route when it detours around the ridge crux.
We noted *many* climbers ascending the standard west ridge route
from the Navajo Basin side.
We made the
summit around 8:15 and spent about half an hour taking in the views.
On our way down, only a couple hundred feet from the summit,
we ran into one of the Navajo Basin-side climbers, who asked if we'd
already been to the summit. "Nope, we turned at 13,900.
Here's your sign."

Mt. Wilson-El Diente Traverse

Class 3 scrambling near the summit

Mt. Wilson
El Diente
Mt
Sneffels – 14,150 ft
Date:
7-2-2006
Climbers: George Barnes, James J., Matt S.
Route: Southwest Ridge, Class 3
RT time: ~4
hours 30 minutes
RT distance:
4.0 miles
Elevation gain: 2,200
feet
After pizza at the
Goldbelt in Ouray, our trio headed up the Camp Bird Road to the Yankee Boy
Basin. The basin was crawling with jeeps and ATVs, but we managed to snag
the last available campsite at the Atlas Mine.
The next morning we
drove up the 4WD road to about 11,900 ft and started hiking around 5 AM.
Sunrise from Blue Lakes Pass was pretty spectacular, especially the views of
Teakettle, Dallas, and Gilpin. The SW ridge was a fun, easy scramble and
much more enjoyable than the scree slog up the standard Lavender Col route.

SW Ridge detail

Sunrise from Blue
Lakes Pass at 12,980 ft

Looking south from
the summit

Wrights Lake at
12,180 ft
Uncompahgre Peak – 14,309 ft
Date:
7-3-2006
Climbers: George Barnes and Matt S.
Route: East Slopes, Class 2
RT time: 4
hours 30 minutes
RT distance:
7.6 miles
Elevation gain: 2,900
feet
On Monday, Matt and I enjoyed a quick trip up Uncompahgre from the Nellie Creek
4WD trailhead. The easy class 1 trail was a nice change after the past two
days of scree sliding.

Early morning along Nellie Creek Trail

Views from 13,300 ft

Looking down the vertical north face

Matt and Wetterhorn
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