GB4 Mountaineering - Chimney Rock, Idaho

Chimney Rock - 7,124 ft

"The lightning rod of North Idaho"

Date: 8-11-08

Climbers: George Barnes, Nate Stutzke

Route: West Face 5.3/5.5

RT Distance: ~12 miles

Summit Post Description: HERE

Mountain Project Description: HERE

Trip Report:

A trip to north Idaho wouldn't be complete without a climb of Chimney Rock in the Selkirk Range. We elected to approach via Pack River Road (east side) which was longer than other options but closer to Sandpoint and gradual. We saw more moose tracks than boot prints on the trail, which was a nice change from Colorado.

Our intended route was on the west face and wouldn't get sun until late afternoon, so we ended up climbing in soft-shell pants and jackets. Cold fingers were still the crux of the day, and I was glad I brought a pair of gloves to wear at the belays.

I led pitch 1 up to an hourglass shaped rock and a fixed pin. It was definitely a different kind of 5.5 than what I'd been climbing on the flatirons lately. Nate made short work of the wildly exposed second pitch, which was probably one of the best pitches I've ever climbed. Numb fingers, lichen, and loose blocks definitely brought some alpine flavor to this 7000ft peak. I took the short third pitch which consisted of a few easy moves and an awkward belly flop, and from there we walked to the vacant summit.

We made a short single rope rappel to bolts at the top of pitch 2. From there we made one double rope rappel all the way back to the base of the rappel chimney route.