Mount Wilson - 14,250 ft

Date:  9-24-2005

Climbers: George Barnes, MarkDB, Aaron Reid

Route:  Southwest Slopes II, Class 4

RT distance: 13.2 miles

RT time: 10 hours 30 minutes

Time to summit: 6 hours

Elevation gain:  4,200 feet

USGS Quadrangles:  Mount Wilson

Trip Report:

After a long drive from Denver, Aaron, Abby, and I arrived in Silverton around 4 PM.  It took us 8 hours, though we stopped to take pictures of turning leaves and also for a tour of Black Canyon of the Gunnison.

Once Mark arrived we all piled into my Liberty and drove over Ophir and Lizard Head Passes to check out our trailhead.  The drive to the Kilpacker TH took about an hour and 15 minutes, which meant we'd be starting early the next morning.

After getting up at 3AM, we were loaded in Mark's Tacoma by 3:23 and heading up US 550.  I enjoyed a breakfast of GORP and Red Bull as we made our way to the trailhead.  By 4:45 we had signed the trail register and were making our way up the gentle Kilpacker Basin trail. 

We made good time up the easy trail and soon reached the Navajo/Kilpacker junction.  After crossing Kilpacker Creek in the dark (interesting!) we climbed into some open grassy plains.  At this point we heard numerous elk bugles, some alarmingly close.

We soon left the comforts of the dirt trail and made our way onto the steep scree which would define the trip.  There's a faint scree trail high into the basin (maybe to 12,500 ft), but after the trail fades travel becomes slower and less enjoyable.  We began to understand why this route was described as a "scree and rubble challenge that is best avoided".  I suspect the route would be a stellar snow climb, albeit with a longish approach.

By around 10:30 AM we were at a notch just to the north of the summit.  From here the summit is a stone's throw away, but the climbing has just begun.  There are a couple routes here; you can choose from the ridge proper, or a face climb below the summit.  Both are class 4 with "considerable exposure".  I had schlepped a rope and rock pro this far, but we decide to just solo the short pitch.

Mark set off to climb what Aaron would later name "Foolhardy Face".  I watch Mark pick his way up loose, snow covered class 4 and decide I'm not a big fan of his route.  The ridge proper is certainly "no fall" terrain, but from my vantage it looks to have less snow and better rock than Mark's route.

My assessment proved to be correct as the ridge was indeed airy, but felt reasonably secure.  I beat Mark to the summit by just a few moments, and watch him make the last few moves to the top.  We spent enough time on the summit to take a few pictures and then made our way down. 

Back at the notch I relax a bit and notice our interesting view of nearby Lizard Head Peak.  We had talked about doing the traverse to El Diente, but backed off because of our rather late hour.  The weather looked pretty stable, but certainly wasn't clear.

The descent gully contained some of the most miserable scree I've ever encountered.  It was with no small amount of relief that we reached the scree trail in the basin.  I noticed a small ice climb forming in a cliff at 12,800 ft, but I doubt it's ever been climbed given it's brevity and long approach.

The dirt trail in the basin was a welcome change from the scree above, and our pace increased dramatically upon reaching it.  After we had shivered all morning, the clouds finally blew off and the sun warmed the basin up for the hike out.

The trail out passed quickly and at 3:15 PM I signed us out at the trail register.  All in all a great day out (in the "it doesn't have to be fun to be fun" sense).  The scree on this route was certainly miserable, but the scramble to the summit and fall colors outweighed it by far.  I would definitely repeat this route, but only during the spring snow season.  After much needed showers in Silverton we met up with our wives and went out for a well earned meal at Handlebars.

Drive over Lizard Head and Ophir Passes:

Drive home over Cinnamon Pass: