Ellingwood Point - 14,042 ft

Blanca Peak - 14,345

Date: 8-6-2005

Climbers: George Barnes, Aaron R., MarkDB, Jerry Shustrin

Route (ascent):  SW Ridge, Class 3

RT distance (from high camp):  XX miles

Elevation gain:  XX feet

USGS Quadrangle:  Blanca Peak

Trip Report:

(Trip report by Aaron Reid, with thanks to Mark, Aaron, and Jerry for use of  their pictures.)

George and I met up with Mark Brown at the 2wd TH at the bottom of the Lake Como Rd at around ~7pm Friday night. Mark had volunteered to get his trusty Tacoma as far up the road as possible, hopefully to the 4wd TH. The going was slow, and in places a little rough for a stock vehicle (one steep straight stretch in particular), but Mark's skill behind the wheel delivered Team Lightning to the 4wd pullout area without incident.

"Hello old friend", George said as he loaded his heavy pack on his shoulders. I loaded up as well and sunk a couple of inches in stature... yep time to backpack in. Wahoo! The three of set off and quickly passed a truck with someone in the back in a red sleeping bag. The identity of the sleeping climber would be revealed the next morning.

The going was not to bad, and as darkness began to fall we reached Jaws I. I think my Audi could probably do it, or at least the hood emblem of my Audi glued onto a tricked out jeep could. Jaws certainly looked to be the end of the road for anything stock.

In the dark we hiked up the Como Lk road, past the other Jaws obstacles, and finally reached Como Lake after about an hour. There were plenty of jeeps and other vehicles in the trees, illuminated by the glow of campfire flames that danced across the lake waters. We pushed higher and as a slight mist began to fall found a nice camp spot about fifty yards from the cairn marking the turnoff for Little Bear standard route. We quickly set up camp and tried to grab some shuteye.

5am and the three of us were up and getting ready when two climbers came walking up the road. One of the men was attempting Little Bear that day, the other to our surprise was Jerry Shustrin! What a small world indeed.

Jerry was more then happy to join us for our plans to do Ellingwood and Blanca. Our group set out and quickly reached the Crater Lake area where we would gain the Southwest ridge of Ellingwood. A wonderful sunrise inspired us all, and we headed up a sloping ramp to gain the ridge. The ridge itself was very solid and fun class 3. Our group stayed on the crest until we hit a thin, long spine on the ridge. We first explored to the right and found it chossy and loose. Mark remembered Roach's route description indicated "very solid" climbing, so we knew we were off track. We returned to the ridge, and I decided to go over the top, stay on the crest and see how it worked out. Jerry and George headed left to see if that would go. Mark joined me on the crest and we found it to be very enjoyable, and airy class 3 (ed: while Jerry and George explored some chossy class 4). Best of all there was no nasty notch or surprise at the end, and we waited a few minutes for George and Jerry to appear.

Once regrouped we headed up the ridge again, Ellingwood's summit looming overhead. The last stretch is pretty steep, but again very solid climbing that never exceeds comfortable class 3. The ridge is quite thin at times, which adds to the excitement. We hit the final stretch right below the summit, and climbed a system of ledges to reach the highpoint.

Little Bear looked awesome from the top, and the traverse to Blanca looked pretty steep. A few snacks and pictures and we were off for Blanca. Our group traversed a little underneath the ridge proper, and as we neared the saddle I decided I'd had enough of the loose talus and headed for the ridge. The rest of the team headed farther down, looking to circumvent a series of ribs that protrudes from the saddle between Ellingwood and Blanca. I found the ridge itself down to the saddle to be very solid, and ended up meeting up with Mark after I had downclimbed a tower in the middle of the saddle. Only one tower stood between me and Blanca's north ridge, but I elected to follow Mark down and around the last rib, and we regained the ridge from there. Jerry and George stayed lower, and found a cairned trail up through the talus.

From there easy going over solid rock up Blanca's standard route, and Mark and I reached the summit as thin gray clouds rolled by. The views were great, and we were soon joined by George, his ipod providing him that final lift he needed to cruise to the summit (ed: As if by design, both Chris LeDoux "Call of the Wild" and AC/DC "Thunderstruck" played during the final summit push). Jerry soon followed and we all took in the view and reflected on a fun peak combination.
 

The descent was loose, tiring and full of talus, but we soon reached the area above Crater Lake. Jerry had a little adventure on the descent, and he has recounted the experience over in the Safety forum. It was scary to see copius amounts of blood spout like that, but Jerry is one tough hombre. After a little fixup with our medkits, we were back on the trail, joking and enjoying the warm afternoon.

Back at camp we reflected on a great day out. The southwest ridge of Ellingwood is certainly a classic. Great rock and fun exposure. If you head that way, stay on the ridge no matter what it looks like, it all works out in the end.
 

Thanks to George, Mark and Jerry for a great day out on the peaks. Little Bear loomed over our heads that afternoon in camp-- two peaks down, one to go.